How to spend Christmas in Naples, Italy | A guide by locals
As locals we are proud to help you planning your Christmas holidays in Naples. This guide will inspire you to explore one of the most underrated cities in Italy. From the narrow alleys of San Gregorio Armeno, popular for the nativity scene stands, to unique museums and plenty of things to do. Christmas in Naples, Italy is something really special.
We think that there is no better period of the year to visit Naples, more than Christmas. The atmosphere of the city, change completely. The scenario is of a big party, with events that are taking place all over for the whole month of December and over in January after New Year’s Eve.
The holiday season casts a special spell over Naples. Twinkling lights adorn historic buildings, nativity scenes animate neighbourhood squares, and the tantalizing smells of roasting chestnuts and panettone waft through the streets. With its rich culture and festive spirit, Naples is a wonderful place to celebrate Christmas.
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Chrismas in Naples, a guide by locals
A proper inside guide to Naples in Christmas will include some of the best-hidden gems of the southern city. Some of the traditions that Naples and the inhabitant are following from generations and sims to be timeless. Christmas in Naples is unique, with glimpse lights sparkling everywhere.
The boroughs of the city dress to impress and everywhere the people are more happy than usual. You can clearly smell, see and feel the atmosphere. Every alley of Naples is full of stands selling any kind of goods in Christmas style. From the classic ball for the typical Xmas tree to the handmade nativity figures.
The food is another point of view over Christmas in Naples. The long culinary tradition of one of the most known cities in Italy come across with some of the best food for the period. Typical are the sweets, like the struffoli or roccocò, but also the cassata. Not everybody knows that Naples has got some of the best Christmas markets in Europe.
San Gregorio Armeno, the little alley in the core of the old town of Naples, the well known SpaccaNapoli, is the best example of art that winter in Naples has to offer. The old alley is where are all the nativity scene makers.
Also Read: Things to do in Naples Italy
How does Naples celebrate Christmas?
Christmas in Naples is a grand celebration deeply rooted in Italian traditions. The streets come alive with lights, nativity scenes, and bustling locals.
The holidays centre around the nativity scenes or presepi. The handcrafted scenes depict the birth of Jesus, often with dozens of figures. You can see displays of presepi art from local craftsmen throughout the city.
On Christmas Eve, families feast on the “Feast of Seven Fishes.” This seafood-centric meal traditionally includes fried fish, shrimp, clams, calamari, and more.
Naples also has many beautiful churches where locals attend midnight mass on Christmas Eve. The churches host concerts and ceremonies to mark the holiday.
After the religious celebrations, families gather at home on Christmas day for a big meal with roast lamb, pastiera cake, and other Italian delicacies.
What is the weather like in Naples in December
December weather in Naples is cool and wet, with average highs of 15°C (59°F) and lows around 9°C (48°F). While you may encounter some rainy days, the festive holiday spirit keeps visitors’ moods bright. Locals are accustomed to the damp winters and don’t let an occasional shower dampen their Christmas merriment.
The cooling temperatures lend themselves perfectly to strolling historic streets with a mug of vin brulé or a cup of thick hot chocolate. With layers and an umbrella on hand, you’ll be ready to explore Naples’s Christmas magic despite the weather.
20 things to do in Naples at Christmas
San Gregorio Armeno, the Nativity Master alley
Close to the historic Via dei Tribunali, where all the best pizzerias of Naples are, there is San Gregorio Armeno. The well-known street of the old town of the city is the best place to visit in Naples at Christmas. The narrow alleys are where the character masters expose the masterpieces.
The nativity is a traditional representation of Jesus born place. Following the tradition, every family in Naples has one of it in their own house. San Gregorio Armeno is where you go to find unique pieces handmade.
Admire the Stunning Christmas Lights Displays
Naples sparkles during the Christmas season as lights decorate landmarks across the city. Make time to admire some of the most impressive illuminations and displays.
The Christmas lights along Via San Gregorio Armeno are especially stunning. This street is famous year-round for its artisan shops crafting detailed nativity scenes. But during December, the entire road glitters with brilliant holiday lights strung overhead. Evening is the perfect time to stroll this festive lane.
On Christmas Eve, gather in Piazza del Plebiscito to see the lighting of a colossal Christmas tree. As evening falls, the tree’s thousands of lights begin to glow, officially launching the Christmas celebrations. Stick around after dark and watch as projections of holiday images dance across the façade of the Royal Palace.
Of course, no discussion of Neapolitan Christmas lights is complete without mentioning the dazzling Luci d’Artista display. Lasting through early January, this spectacular exhibit transforms the city into an open-air art gallery. Creative light installations illuminate castles, churches, squares, and more.
Nativity scene at the Chiostro of Santa Chiara
Talking about the nativity scene, another location that you can’t miss in Naples at Christmas is the Chiostro of Santa Chiara. The cloister is dated back to 1300 and is one of the most suggestive places in the entire city.
During Christmas time, the cloister host an important and huge Nativity scene, with over 200 metres of exposition.
Stroll around Via Chiaia – Christmas in Naples
Via Chiaia is one of our favourite area of Naples, mainly because is pedestrian only. This winding street is calm during the week, but at Christmas gets busy because of shops and boutiques lined up. Via Chiaia connect the centre of Naples to the seaside, and is right next two iconic landmarks, Piazza Plebiscito and Caffe’ Gambrinus.
After a visit to Piazza Plebiscito, you have to walk all the way down towards the Area of San Pasquale a Chiaia. During Christmas time the entire area is always filled with lights glittering and stripes of red and gold colour.
Write wishes in Galleria Umberto I
Walking through Via Roma, another important shopping street in Naples, you can see the amazing architecture of the Umberto I Gallery. This is a popular meeting point for locals, full of famous boutiques and food shops.
At the centre of the gallery, every year there is a traditional Xmas Tree. Locals use to write a letter the best wishes and attach it to the fir. This is a kind of tradition for everybody in Naples.
Attend Midnight Mass at the Cathedral
On Christmas Eve, the faithful across Naples flock to midnight Mass, an anchor of Italian holiday celebrations. Join locals inside the magnificent Naples Cathedral and enjoy the festive atmosphere.
The seat of the Archdiocese of Naples, the cathedral dates back nearly 1300 years. Its gilded ceilings, frescoed chapels, and elaborate crypt create a lavish setting for the Mass. Arrive early to admire the interior.
As midnight nears, excitement builds in anticipation of the solemn Mass. Choir songs fill the nave as attendees clutch unlit candles. When the clock strikes twelve, the cardinal processes down the aisle and lights the paschal candle, spreading light throughout the darkened cathedral.
Listen to Festive Concerts
Naples overflows with free Christmas concerts, from classical performances to folk music. Attend one for a dose of holiday spirit.
On December 26th, Teatro di San Carlo stages its annual Concerto di Natale. Listen to the orchestra and chorus perform selections from Tchaikovsky’s The Nutcracker along with Neapolitan Christmas songs. The 4 PM performance is free with advanced booking.
Chiese del Centro Storico, a foundation promoting Naples’ historic city center, organizes the 100 Presepi event. From December 8th through January 6th, churches around town host free Christmas concerts spanning genres like gospel, jazz, opera, and more.
Another excellent free concert is the Christmas Gospel Festival at the Naples Cathedral on December 26th. The joyous music perfectly matches the city’s vibrant energy.
Eat the Cuoppo | Typical Neapolitan Street Food
It is not the perfect visit to Naples without trying the food. This is not just one of the best cultural cities in Italy, but also a culinary “Mecca” for food lovers. Naples has a rich tradition in street food, made by the passion for handmade dishes and the quickest way to cook it and eat on the way. You can see all the best street food tours in Naples, and take part in around 20 Euro. Read our guide!
The “Cuoppo” is actually coming from the fisherman origins of the city. It is mainly made with fresh seafood, like prawns, ring squids and baby squids, anchovies. Everything is fried in hot oil at a high temperature. The packaging is what give the name to the product. The “cuoppo” is a cone shape, severely made in paper, that can absorb excessive oil. In origin, it was made by old newspaper pages rolled in a cone shape.
Try the typical Roccocò or struffoli | Christmas in Naples
Naples is for many the city with the best street food in the whole of Italy. Many people love to take food tours for small groups, go around the little alleys of the city, and taste delicious traditional Neapolitan food. (Check some tours that we suggest)
The Roccocò and the Struffoli are typical Christmas sweets. It’s a kind of cake, hard to chew. The roccocò is a rounded kind of cake with almond in it. The preparation is really hard, and any family has its way to serve it, coming from the tradition handed down in the family.
The same is for the Struffoli, that is instead, small sweet rounded pieces, with a glaze of honey around them. So good.
There are many bakeries in the city that prepare it for the whole Christmas period. Those are called “Pasticceria”, you can buy portions of any size.
Visit Naples Spanish Quarter
While celebrating New Year’s Eve in Naples, make sure to spend time in the Spanish Quarter neighbourhood (Quartieri Spagnoli). This vibrant area comes even more alive during the holidays, with colourful lights strung across the narrow streets.
On Christmas Eve, locals living in the tall, crowded apartments throw open their windows and call out Buone Feste! (Happy Holidays!) to their neighbours. The Spain-influenced tradition recalls the historic Spanish ruling over Naples. This is the neighbourhood where the famous murals of Maradona is, with all the streets celebrating the football team of the city. Unmissable!
Walk in the Vomero Christmas Market of Naples
When I was a kid, was a family tradition getting to the Vomero District during Christmas. Every year stands line-up, creating one of the best Christmas markets in Naples. It’s here that you will feel the proper Christmassy atmosphere, with typical products, souvenirs and traditional food.
Vomero is not ideal just at Christmas time, because of the typical market. It is one of the poshest areas in Naples. There are many trendy bars, wineries and restaurants that offers the best of the city. Enjoy the atmosphere during the weekend.
Also Read: Things to do in Italy in winter
Admire the city from the terrace of Castel Sant’Elmo
Just going up the hills of Vomero, the area where is one of the most charming Christmas Markets in Naples, you will see an amazing Castle. On the top of Castel Sant’Elmo, you can enjoy a perfect view of Naples, with the Bay and the Vesuvius main subjects of this beautiful picture. In front of the castle, there is a terrace, where locals love to hang out with a beautiful panorama.
This is one of the most romantic places in Naples. If you are exploring the city like a local, Castel Sant’Elmo needs to be of the places to visit, even for the first time in Naples.
Also Read: Things to do in Naples Italy
Naples Fish Market Christmas Eve
This is a proper tradition in any family of Naples. The night before Christmas Eve, all the members of the family goes to the Fish Market.
The biggest and busiest is in the centre, around the train station of Naples. This beautiful, colourful, buzzing, busy and folkloristic market has a wides selection of fish, oysters and shellfishes. Here is where you can find the proper Neapolitan liveliness. The market is open every day, all year round, however, it’s on Christmas Eve that it gets more lively than usual.
Bonfire Night at the “Befana” in Piazza Mercato
Not properly in the Christmas period, you will say. But in Naples, by tradition, the Christmas period will start around the 22, when there are school holidays until the 6th of January. Such a long period, it is true, but it carries a time of the year dedicated to the celebrations for Christmas, New Year’s Eve, the first day of the year and the Befana.
The last of this list is known as the wife of Santa Claus, or in Italian Babbo Natale. This is a typical tradition in Southern Italy, that you can’t find in any other part of the world. It matches with the arrive of the arrival of the three kings at the Jesus cave, within the Spain traditions In Naples, this day is known as the Befana, where every good kid has got as a present a sock full of sweets.
Visit Naples underground and the Catacombs of San Gennaro
If you don’t know who is St. Gennaro, you need to start from here to understand Naples. There is an essential link between the patron saint of the city and the inhabitants. Visiting the Catacombs of San Gennaro, you will enter the heart of Naples, understanding and learning about the close bond of faith between the city and its Saint. It is a trip in the tradition, religion and history that will leave you breathless.
Go for a pizza tour in Naples
It is always time for pizza in Naples. We can assure you that pizza at lunch is incredible, and we enjoy more than an evening. For a proper local guide about the best pizza in Naples, check it here.
Pizza is coming from Naples, and you can actually eat it in any kind of version. It is born as street food, and the best way is to eat at “portafoglio”, basically folded in four pieces. Recently are opening gourmet pizzerias in Naples. Revisited versions of the tradition, but really good and tasty as well. We suggest you go for a pizza tour in Naples, in order to experience the real taste. If you want a full experience check for our list of the best Pizza Masterclasses in Naples.
Visit the Underground of Naples with a lunch or dinner with Pizza. Best deal for 26 Euro.
Get a Naples Arte Card to access for 3 Days to Museums and Archeological sites
Looking at a cultural and relaxing time in Naples at Christmas, we suggest you buy an Arte Card. This is an insider tip that will save you a few bucks. With Naples Arte Card you will have access to almost all the museums in Naples, included the Royal Palace and some of the best churches. Also, you can go for free, included in your pass to visit the Archeological sites of Pompeii and Herculaneum, also hike the Vesuvius and visit some of the best Villas on the coastline.
Take a day trip to Sorrento in Christmas
Sorrento is one of the most underrated cities close to Naples. This post will enhance the beauty of this city on the coast especially at Christmas time. The best time to visit Sorrento is in Summertime when you can enjoy the beaches and the long stretch of coastline, with the high cliffs towards Amalfi. But Sorrento is more.
You will be surprised that locals from Naples, use to enjoy a couple of nights in the Christmas period in Sorrento. The city is surprisingly beautiful with lights everywhere that attract many people. Staying in Naples, Italy on Christmas, will be a good idea to plan a short trip to Sorrento at Christmas.
Book a table at one of the fancy restaurants with an amazing view and enjoy the shops in the little alleys of the historic city centre. Sorrento is away just an hour from Naples, taking the train. The Vesuviana will take you from the main train station of Naples, Piazza Garibaldi to the centre of Sorrento, for less than 5 euro.
Watch the Christmas lights in Salerno
Salerno is the city of the Christmas Lights. It is estimated that the city attracts millions of tourists every year in the Christmas period just to watch the amazing lights. The city council, start to organize this event months before. The lights are proper artworks, with artists from everywhere. There is a light garden with animals, a sky of lights, the churches completely lighted and many more attractions.
Salerno is worth a visit at Christmas, the second city of Campania, is away just an hour taking a train from the main train station of Naples, Piazza Garibaldi. From the same train station, you can take even the fastest train, with Italo, that will take you there in half an hour.
Also Read: Things to do in Naples Italy
Cava de’ Tirreni | Christmas in an old hamlet
Cava de’ Tirreni is a hamlet in the mountains around Salerno. This is one of our favourite boroughs in the Napoli area. The city overlooks the valley, with a natural surrounding that will be beautiful to snap. At Christmas time, the little borough attracts mostly locals, with lights and special events for the period.
The city centre is mainly made by one alley, with arcades on both sides and the little shops selling any kind of goods.
Experience Cava de’ Tirreni with the locals, buy food at the market and have dinner at their house.
Visit the Archeological site of Herculaneum
Many people will argue that Pompeii is the most known archaeological site in the World. But, maybe not everybody knows that one of the most preserved is actually Herculaneum, which is even closest to Naples. Herculaneum was an old Roman city, covered by magma and ashes by the eruption of the Volcano Vesuvius. Today this city is called Ercolano and it’s born by the ashes of the prestigious roman town.
Visiting Herculaneum you will also discover the museum dedicated to the eruption. It is an interactive path, worth to be visited. The ticket to the entrance for the Archeological site of Herculaneum is also cheapest than Pompeii. A fast-entrance ticket with an Archeologist will cost around 35 euro (Check it here!)
What to wear in Naples in December?
Naples’s winters are mild, but the sea breeze can make it feel brisk, so light layers work well. Here are some tips on what to wear:
- Bring a warm jacket: Have a water-resistant coat or jacket to stay cosy in case of rain.
- Pack light sweaters and cardigans: Throw a cardigan or sweater over your shirt to stay warm indoors and out.
- Wear long-sleeved tops or shirts: Opt for long sleeves versus short sleeves as your base layer.
- Bring pants and jeans: Dress comfortably in pants, dark jeans or leggings instead of shorts.
- Wear closed walking shoes: Sneakers or boots with covered toes work better than open sandals in winter.
- Bring a scarf: A cosy scarf adds warmth and completes your winter look.
- Dress in layers So you can comfortably adjust to go from indoors to outdoors.
With the right versatile layers, you’ll stay warm and stylish while strolling Naples in December!
Where to stay in Naples?
PERFECT FOR SPENDING XMAS IN NAPLES
Right in the centre of Naples, Prestige Rooms Chiaia is a great place to stay in Naples. In comfortable rooms with a balcony, you can enjoy your couple of nights in Naples. Book in advance to get a great deal!
A sustainable property near the famous San Carlo Theatre, Domus Sibyllina is one of the best places to stay in Naples!
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I didn’t know that there were so many things to do in Naples during Christmas. Really good guide <3
Thank you Zizi, this is meaning a lot to us. Naples is our home city and we think we don’t write never enough about it. But definitely Christmas is an amazing time of the year to visit Naples.
I love Napoli, and your post makes me look for plane tickets. Oh, and it made me hungry too!
Every time we write a blog post about Napoli we feel more hungry than usual. I hope you get the chance to book those plane tickets and enjoy Napoli!
Hello, we are looking to visit Naples for Christmas this year and wonder if you can recommend the best area to stay and a good hotel? Also are restaurants open on Christmas Day ? Do you have any recommendations for any and would we need to book? ☺️
Hi Rachel, thanks for passing by. It’s lovely to read that you will visit Naples for Christmas. Most of the restaurants are open on Christmas Day, and some of them are just for lunchtime. Best checking with the restaurant beforehand and making a reservation. I will say that a month earlier is the best, as it tends to be fully booked, just because a few places are open. Restaurants at this time of the year tend to have a set menu, so check your preferences. Regarding the best area to stay, apologies if we haven’t got a dedicated blog post, but this is coming soon. Below we have selected 3 areas to stay in depending on the budget:
– Quartiere Sanita’ – You can find many apartments at good prices, nearby the old town and main attractions with plenty of restaurants open (Concettina ai 3 Santi for Pizza and Poppella for sweet tooth)
– Per Amor Duomo (Wonderful accommodation in the historic centre – Suggested!)
Avoid the accommodation nearby the train station; the area is not the best.
Let us know if you need more suggestions; happy to help further. Have an excellent time in Naples! We are currently in Naples, making tons of videos through IG and YouTube; consider following us there too!
I lived and worked in Naples in the 70s and it is without doubt one of my favorite places in the world. I had intended to retire to Italy but my life took a different path. I’m from England but now live in Florida, USA. My wife and I are arriving in Rome on Christmas day and driving straight to Naples. Staying for a few days then heading back to Rome for the new year. Can’t wait to introduce my wife to REAL Italian food and wine, especially Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio. Thank you so much for your article, very informative, it has given us a lot to think about as to what to see in such a short time.
Hi Raymond,
Your comment is lovely; happy to get back some good memories. We would love to hear more stories from you and your time in Naples. It is our home city, and we might be there around Christmas too this year. So give us a shout if you are around so we can sip a glass of wine together! 🙂 With love Toti and Ale!
Hi im looking to come to naples for 3 nights and wondered is it suitable for children to do the walk to vesuvius thanks and any information on trips to Herculaneum thanks
Hi Shaun, thank you for passing by. The hike on the Vesuvius is very easy. You need to get on 1000 mt, and then a steep hike for about 200mt. It is safe for kids as well. We are doing this hike next week. As you are with kids we suggest you look into a package with locals, as there are not many parking spots at the top. You can also combine Herculaneum with Vesuvius stress-free.
Check these out:
– Mt. Vesuvius hike from Naples
– Pompeii, Herculaneum and Mt.Vesuvius All included
Let us know if you need further info and feel free to follow our journey on other channels too, we will document our Vesuvius hike on IG
I am interested to visit Naples by Christmas.
I am interested in seeing the tree lighting at Piazza del Plebiscito on Christmas Eve, but am having trouble finding information about it for 2023. Do you know about what time it starts? Thank you!